Sunday, September 30, 2012

Redwoods: The Tallest Trees



Photographer Nick Nichols spent a year planning the nearly impossible: a top-to-bottom photograph of a 300-foot-tall redwood tree, now the centerpiece of the October issue of National Geographic Magazine.

Thursday, September 27, 2012

4 Tips for Pruning Trees and Shrubs


1. Use clean equipment.
Look at the main three pieces of equipment you will need for pruning. In understanding your equipment and preparing to clean it, take a moment and look at your hand pruner, lopper or pruning saw closely. Open and close the device and see how the device "works". Clean the blade of the device after use with Isopropyl alcohol. As you will be using the equipment to prune trees and shrubs, the device picks up resin, juices, and sap from the plant. These "juices" may contain disease or harmful pathogens that can spread from plant to plant.
2. Proper time of year.
Proper time of year depends on the tree or shrub. In general, spring blooming plants should be pruned after they bloom in the spring the year before. Fall blooming plants should be pruned during the winter months. During the growing season remember when pruning a spring blooming tree or shrub, that you are pruning for shape and health of plant. In other words, the plant is actually creating those beautiful blooms for next spring. Around the second half of July pruning should cease, until around mid-September. Doing this will prevent new growth as cold weather approaches. After mid-September resume pruning. But, remember that the way you prune a tree or shrub in say the fall is the way it will look all winter, as the plant will grow little before cold sets in. Do hard pruning in winter months.
3. Prune for shape
Before pruning decide if an informal or formal look is desire for the plant. An informal look may only require pruning once a year or a few light prunings. A formal look will require a more scheduled, rigorous approach. Formal looking hedges or shrubs that have small or medium sized leaves can have a more uniform with routine "shearing", requiring a monthly pruning during the growing season.
4.What does one prune from a tree or shrub?
Prune out any dead wood, crossing, and rubbing branches. Pruning is actually an act of caring for the plant. Trees and shrubs need proper care to make it perform to their potential. This means that you should use proper pruning techniques. Use the proper device for the size cut to be performed. With hand pruners only cut branches that are quite small like up to a 1/2". The hand loppers prune branches from 1/2" up to about 1 1/2" depending on the angle and hardness of wood. The pruning saw is designed to prune branches form 1 1/2" up to about 3" or 4" inches. Remember that branches are heavy, any time of year, so, in pruning, the weight of the branch will have an effect on the cut, as you prune. To prune medium sized branches corrrectly, use a cross-drop pruning technique. Dead wood will appear as possibly leafless branches, brittle, rotten, distorted tips, disease infected. Collect and haul away trimmings. Next, prune any branches that cross and rub each other.
These are just 4 pruning tips for trees and shrubs that will make you a better more informed gardener


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6911850

Monday, September 24, 2012

Winterize Your Trees


As the summer winds down and fall begins to set it, it is the time of year to start making preparations for the cold. Though you probably already do a fall cleanup for your lawn, be sure that you do not forget to include your trees in your checklist. Taking care of this now will help to ensure not only that your trees stay healthy and safe throughout the winter, but that they are flourishing and as beautiful as possible come spring time. Here are a few simple tips to guide your thinking as you consider what your trees need for winterization this fall.
Pruning
Just like you would for any other plant, pruning a tree can help to make room for new growth and improve overall health. Removing any unhealthy or damaged pieces of a tree is a great idea, though this is often quite difficult to do properly without the help of an expert. Another thing to look out for is the presence of foliage or limbs drooping down to touch the soil below. This can actually create an opportunity for certain types of harmful insects and pests to gain access to the tree.
Mulching
Covering the soil surrounding the tree with several inches of organic composted mulch can function in many positive ways. This layer can act nicely as a buffer, evening out extreme fluctuations in both temperature and moisture levels. It also protects sensitive feeder roots and is a great way to ensure that nutrients are available at all times close to the roots. It is almost as if you are wrapping up the ground the way you might wrap yourself up for the winter (except your sweaters hopefully lack both nutrients and moisture).
A Professional Eye
Unfortunately, it is oftentimes not obvious to the untrained eye which trees and which specific limbs are going to be problematic over the winter. And, even if it is, tree trimming itself is usually going to be a job done much better by professionals. It is a good idea to schedule an inspection with a professional tree service so they can take a look at your situation and give you an opinion on how your trees will do if left alone during the winter. They will be able to expertly prune and trim problematic limbs, which can serve to improve the overall structural stability of a tree, create a nicer shape, encourage more full spring growth, prevent storm damage, and even discourage cold-weather diseases and insects from causing harm.


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/7282843

Friday, September 21, 2012

An action packed video that shows what makes Signature Tree Service your number one tree care provider!



An action packed video that shows some of the techniques, equipment and team members, that make Signature Tree Service your number one tree care provider!

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Fall - Time To Forget About Your Trees, Right?


The leaves are dropping. Your trees' systems are shutting down. You can forget about the great outdoors until spring. "Not true, says Lou Giroud, ISA Certified Arborist and President of Giroud Tree And Lawn. "In reality, fall is the best time to perform many tree care operations," explains Mr. Giroud. He recommends taking the following actions now to prepare your trees for winter and give them a healthy start in the Spring.
Start with a professional tree inspection
Fall is the perfect time to have your trees inspected by a professional arborist. With the leaves off, your arborist can thoroughly evaluate your trees. Spotting problems early is the main purpose of the inspection. Your arborist will be looking for cracks, decay, excessive deadwood, structural defects and other problems that may require action.
Treat for Fall and some Spring pests now.
There are two categories of pests that require treatment in the fall.
Fall Pests: This fall, the most active pests are Spider Mites, Hemlock Adelgid and Spruce Gall Adelgid. A spray application applied between now and November is the best way to treat these destructive pests
Spring Pests: Did pests attack your trees last Spring? A Merit soil injection in the Fall is the most effective treatment for controlling many Spring pests including Birch Leaf Miner, Lace Bugs and, Aphids. It takes several months for Merit to be absorbed by the root system and distributed to the branches, leaves and buds. When the pests emerge in the Spring, Merit is waiting for them in the leaves and buds that they feed on.
Stop Deer Damage
Trampled flowerbeds...Defoliated trees and plants...Most likely, deer have invaded your property. Spray products are available that can stop deer from munching on your trees and shrubs. To be effective, a deer deterrent should be applied monthly from November through March-the prime months for deer damage. Additionally, the deterrent should be biodegradable, rain resistant and have a smell that is not offensive to humans. Ask your arborist for more information.
Build your tree's energy reserves with fertilizer
Your tree may appear to be dormant. However, its roots continue to grow through the fall and winter. An injection of time-release fertilizer in the fall stimulates root growth, improves root absorption capability and provides vital nutrients throughout the winter to get your tree ready for Spring.
Prune now for health, beauty and safety
Fall is a great time to prune most trees. The risk of spreading disease is reduced and the tree's structure is more visible. A professional should remove deadwood, eliminate crossed branches and establish a healthy growth pattern. Fall is also a good time to elevate lower branches and prune trees away from houses, pools, driveways and walks.
Prevent split trees by installing cables or bolts:
Trees with multiple trunks or bark that has grown into wood at a tree's crotch are prime targets for problems. An arborist should install a cable that is bolted through both limbs to keep the tree from splitting apart. It's essential that your Arborist chooses the right hardware designed to fit the specific problem and uses it in the right way to successfully brace the tree.
Prevent Winter Burn
Cold wind can actually suck the moisture from the leaves and needles on your evergreens. Azaleas, hollies and rhododendron are most susceptible but pines, hemlocks and yews can also be affected. Ask your arborist to apply an antidescicant to protect your evergreens.
Want to plant a new tree?
Your new tree will have a better chance of survival if you plant it in the Fall. Over the winter, the roots of newly planted trees have an opportunity to grow and get established in the soil. By spring and summer, the tree has a better ability to deal with stress from lack of water and heat.
"A final thought for fall, suggests Mr. Giroud, "keep a protective layer of mulch around your trees and don't forget to water newly planted trees until the ground is frozen. "


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5165616

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Signature Tree Service Commercial



Curtis and his team show how Signature Tree Service are the right choice when if comes to taking care of your trees. See more at www.signaturetreeservice.com

Thursday, September 6, 2012

Tree Planting and Care During the Fall


Although it is not typically thought of as such, fall can actually be one of the best seasons for planting trees. Because summer months are drier, sometimes even drought-stricken, newly planted trees often face a hostile environment, unable to take root and thrive. Depending upon the average temperatures and weather and soil conditions for the region in which one lives, this may even be the case for the mid to late spring months. Conversely, the harsh winter months can also be hostile to newly planted trees.
Trees planted during the fall, however, have a great advantage to both these extremes. In fact, timely planting during the fall can prove to be quite beneficial for the successful growth of the tree. By planting during the fall, the climate is typically quite temperate, and the extremes of hot or cold temperatures are no longer an issue. Additionally, with the fall months, the soil tends to better retain moisture, thereby allowing a more nourishing environment for the tree. Planting trees during the fall also allows them the benefit of the winter months for taking root into the surrounding soil and establishing a better chance for viability with the onset of spring.
It is best to start by researching which trees are native to a region. Selecting a species native to a region further ensures the probability of survival. Once a tree has been selected, plant it by first locating the area where the tree is to be planted, carefully considering the average dimensions for the species selected.
Dig a hole as high as, but several times wider than the root ball of the tree. Loosening the soil of the sides of the hole will allow the roots to better establish themselves. However, the bottom of the hole should be left intact to stabilize the tree. If planted correctly, staking the young tree should not be necessary. Generally, staking is only required if there is damage to the lawn or if there are consistently windy conditions.
Remove any containers or, minimally, loosen any burlap (although removing the burlap altogether is best) that may have come on the tree when purchased from the nursery. Then, place the tree into the hole and begin backfilling. Occasionally stomping on the soil will help to remove air pockets.
Backfill approximately two-thirds of the soil originally dug out, then water and allow the soil to settle, continuing to remove any air pockets. Use the remaining one-third of the soil to create a berm (a mound or wall of soil or sand).
Finally, cover the span of the berm all around the base of the trunk with mulch for added support and protection of the young tree.
Once this simple planting process is completed, care of the tree is quite minimal during the fall months and usually includes only watering every other week.


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5231541

Sunday, September 2, 2012

80' Pine Saved From Falling Into House - Signature Tree Service



Owner/Operator Curtis Fosnaugh of Signature Tree Service loading a top of pine tree into load line and pulley with use of a "port-a-wrap". Port-a-wrap is a lowering device that enables one person to control heavy weighted items to the ground. This job took place in Benicia,CA